Lashing wire is a type of stainless steel wire that holds — or lashes — other wires together. It has a uniform, fine-grain structure and is typically used in the telecommunications industry, which uses multiple wires and cables to transmit data.

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These data cables, such as fiber-optic cables, often need physical support. That job falls to messenger wire, a stiff wire that doesn't carry a signal and exists to add stability and structure to an installation. It runs parallel to the cable and prevents it from sagging or otherwise moving in a way that would strain the signal moving through it. The lashing wire attaches this external messenger wire to the cables or other wires.

Lashing fiber optic cable, for example, requires wrapping the lashing wire around the messenger wire and the fiber optic cable to hold them in place. The lashing wire doesn't carry a signal either but holds everything together.

In many cases, you will need a specialized machine called a lasher to connect aerial cables to the lashing wire. After feeding the lashing wire into the machine and attaching it to the aerial cables, the lasher spins the wire tightly around the cables, fastening them together.

This wire, especially when used with a lasher, offers benefits like:

• Easier installation: A lasher can greatly ease installation for a smoother, more accurate process and fewer labor demands.
• Lower hardware costs: Good lashing wire can keep the aerial wire in place and minimize the need for additional structural components or sturdier — and costlier — communications wire.
• Fewer maintenance requirements: If your wire installation is well-supported, you can limit the need for additional maintenance and repairs down the road, minimizing costs and avoiding service interruptions.
• Increased installation life span: Structural integrity is key to a long-lasting installation, and lashing wire can help your project get as much life as possible.

It may seem simple, but lashing wire has an essential role. Like other telecom cables, it must withstand harsh weather and corrosive agents while staying within budget and allowing you to work with the wire in a way that fits your project. Thanks to various steel grades, you can find lashing wire with different physical properties to meet your needs.

Lashing wire comes in several different types, made with various stainless steel alloys. They primarily differ in how they prevent corrosion with resistant materials like chromium and molybdenum. You can also find annealed lashing wire, which improves the workability of your wire.

1. Type 430 Lashing Wire

Type 430 lashing wire is a general-purpose option that offers excellent all-around performance. It is made of low-carbon stainless steel with about 17% chromium. Type 430 is a magnetic, ferritic and thermally non-hardening type of steel. This alloy has a tensile strength ranging from 70,000 to 95,000 pounds per square inch (psi) and an average break load of 125 pounds. This lashing wire comes in 1,200-foot coils that weigh 6.5 pounds.

Without any nickel or molybdenum, Type 430 wire is susceptible to corrosion, and some conditions can cause dark surface staining. This wire is only suitable for use at normal atmospheric pressures and away from corrosive agents. Type 430 should not be used within 25 miles of saltwater or near industrial applications with pollutant emissions.

2. Type 316 Lashing Wire

On the other end of the spectrum is Type 316, which offers the best corrosion resistance. It can be used in places where Type 430 would typically break down, like coastal areas or industrial settings. Type 316 is made of 18/10 stainless steel, which comprises 18% chromium, 10% nickel and 2.5% molybdenum. It is non-magnetic and austenitic, meaning it has a specific crystalline structure that imparts many of its beneficial physical characteristics.

This composition allows Type 316 to stand up to threats that would corrode other grades. It holds up against most chemicals, including sulfides and chlorides, and salt spray, which causes pinhole corrosion and pitting in Type 430. Type 316 offers a tensile strength of 95,000 to 125,000 psi — slightly higher than Type 430 — and has an average break load of 145 pounds. Like Type 430, Type 316 comes in 1,200-foot coils that weigh 6.5 pounds.

3. Type 302 Lashing Wire

If you need something a little stronger than Type 430 but not quite as rugged as Type 316, Type 302 offers a great middle ground. Also called Superlash, this type of lashing wire can stand up to moderately corrosive environments in the air but won't provide the same resistance level as Type 316. The stainless steel alloy is 18/8, which contains about 18% chromium and 8% nickel for excellent resistance to rusting. Like Type 316, it is non-magnetic, austenitic and thermally non-hardening.

Type 302 lashing wire comes in two different diameters:

• 0.038 inches: Even at the smaller size, a 0.038-inch Type 302 wire is as strong as a 0.045-inch Type 430 wire. It has better ductility and elongation, allowing it to withstand stress and bending. This wire offers an average break load of 115 pounds. A 1,600-foot coil weighs 6.3 pounds.
• 0.045 inches: The larger size of Type 302 wire offers a higher breaking load of 165 pounds. A 1,200-foot coil weighs 6.5 pounds.

Type 302 offers a high tensile strength of 95,000 to 125,000 psi, along with high breaking loads.

4. Annealed Cable Lashing Wire

Another option is to buy any of the above options in their annealed forms. Annealed wire undergoes a heat treatment process that combats hardening, making the product more workable. The treatment process modifies the metal's mechanical properties by adjusting its crystal structure.

The first step is the recovery stage, in which the metal is heated to a temperature that relieves internal stresses. Then the metal is heated to its recrystallization temperature but stops short of its melting temperature. At this phase, new grains start to form, free of any flaws that were present beforehand. In the grain growth stage, the material is cooled at a specific rate, allowing the grains to develop fully. The result is a new atomic structure that is more resistant to work stressors.

Once the metal has these uniform grains, it takes on several useful properties, including:

• Reduced hardness and increased ductility: These properties significantly improve the metal's flexibility, allowing it to be used for more diverse applications. By improving ductility, the annealing process also helps the metal retain its durability after being drawn into wire.
• Minimized brittleness: Brittle wire is more prone to breaking under stress, reducing the potential life span of the overall installation. Decreasing brittleness through annealing can help your lashing wire absorb more energy and avoid breakage.
• Improved machinability: Annealed lashing wire can better withstand machining processes, further increasing the flexibility of your application.
• Eliminated complications from residual stress cracking: Residual stress occurs in a wire after it has experienced plastic deformation, such as fast thermal changes, phase transformations or mechanical processes like bending and drawing. These stressors can be virtually invisible but adversely affect the wire's structural integrity, making it prone to fractures. Annealing eliminates these stress cracks and potential complications.

The process of annealing is an easy way to improve the longevity and performance of your stainless steel lashing wire.

Types of Electrical Wires and Cables

Published April 15,

Electrical wire and cable must be sized and installed correctly to pass an electrical inspection and keep electricity running safely through your home. This guide will teach you the difference between types of electrical wires and types of electrical cables. You’ll also learn how to choose between electrical cables and wires for your projects.

Safety Tip: The National Electrical Code (NEC) and local building codes regulate the types of electrical wires and cable that can be installed in specific electrical applications.

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Table of Contents

1. Difference Between Wire vs. Cable

2. Wire Labeling

3. Wire Material

4. Maximum Voltage Rating

5. Wire Colors

6. Gauge

Difference Between Wire vs. Cable

While the terms wire and cable are often used interchangeably, technically a wire is one electrical conductor and a cable is multiple conductors, or a group of wires, encased in sheathing.

Electric wires are typically made of aluminum or copper. They are either bare or insulated and typically covered in a thin layer of thermoplastic. If they have a thermoplastic sheath, then the thermoplastic is colored to indicate whether the wire is a neutral, ground or hot wire in your electrical installation. We discuss wire colors in a section of this guide.

Cables contain at least a neutral wire, ground wire and hot wire that are twisted or bonded together. Depending on its purpose, the cable may contain more wires. The wires in a cable are insulated in their own color-coded layer of thermoplastic. The group of wires is then encased in an outer sheath to make up the single cable.

Wire Labeling

The most common types of electrical wires used in residential applications are usually nylon coated thermoplastic with a high-heat resistance. Wires are labeled with the THHN/THWN, material, maximum voltage rating and gauge.

• THHN/THWN

Here’s what the letters stand for:

T – Thermoplastic insulation

H – Heat resistant

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HH – High heat resistance up to 194 degrees Fahrenheit

W – Rated for wet locations

N – Nylon-coated to resist damage from oil or gasoline

X – Synthetic polymer, flame-resistant

THHN is made for temperatures up to 75 degrees Celsius. THWN can usually handle higher temperatures in both dry and wet conditions.

Wire Material

Most wire will be marked “CU” for copper, the most common conductor of residential electricity. Because electricity travels on the outside of copper wire, these wires are insulated to protect against fire and shock.

Aluminum wire is more conductive than copper wire, but it also degrades faster. For this reason, aluminum wire typically isn’t used in homes. Older wire could be aluminum or copper-clad aluminum. To comply with NEC guidelines, aluminum wire should only be installed by a professional electrician.

Maximum Voltage Rating

The maximum voltage rating will be a number such as 600, which indicates the maximum voltage the wire can carry. The average household voltage is 120 to 240 volts.

To calculate the maximum wattage a wire or cable can hold, multiply amperage by voltage. Amps x Voltage = Watts.

• Amperage: strength of an electrical current
• Voltage: electrical force needed to drive a current between two points
• Wattage: amount of electricity used

Wire Colors

A wire’s color tells you the purpose of the wire. The NEC references the white conductor as the grounded conductor, the green or bare as the equipment grounding conductor, and the other colors as the ungrounded conductors. Typically, white wire is neutral wire and green or bare wire is ground wire. Any other color is usually a hot wire that carries an electrical current.

• White insulation: Typically considered neutral but can sometimes be used as a hot lead in certain situations, such as switch loops. In existing wiring jobs, white wires may also be marked with black or red to indicate that it’s now a hot wire.
• Green insulation and bare copper: Ground wire.
• Black insulation: Hot wire for switches and outlets.
• Red insulation: Hot wire for switch legs and hardwired smoke detectors.
• Blue/Yellow insulation: Hot wire pulled through a conduit.

Safety Tip: Always test wires with a volt checker. A neutral can be just as dangerous as a hot wire. It still has the potential to electrocute you. It can also "ground out" and electrify any metal it meets. Treat every wire as though it’s a hot wire. If you have any uncertainty as to whether a white wire is used as neutral or hot in a project, check with a professional electrician.

Gauge

The wire gauge indicates the electrical wire sizing, as defined by the American Wire (AWG) system. The most common gauges are 10, 12 or 14. The gauge and diameter of the wire are inversely related. In other words, as the gauge number gets higher, the diameter of the wire gets smaller. For example, a 10-gauge wire is bigger than a 12-gauge wire. Larger wires can carry more amperage and wattage than smaller wires.

Tip: If a project calls for longer lengths of wire (such as 80 or more feet from the breaker), increase the gauge size to ensure that enough electricity can pass through it.

Recommended Amperage Loads

The below electrical wire sizing shows both the recommended and the most common wire gauges. Here are the recommended uses for each gauge.

Wire and Cable Gauge: 14-gauge

• Recommended 80 Percent Wattage Load: watts (120 volts)
• Max Wattage Load: watts (120 volts)
• Recommended for common residential wiring: Light fixtures, household receptacles

Wire and Cable Gauge: 12-gauge

• Amps: 20
• Recommended 80 Percent Wattage Load: watts (120 volts), watts (240 volts)
• Max Wattage Load: watts (120 volts), watts (240 volts)
• Common residential wiring: Light fixtures, household receptacles, small appliances

Wire and Cable Gauge: 10-gauge

• Amps: 30
• Recommended 80 Percent Wattage Load: watts (120 volts), watts (240 volts)
• Max Wattage Load: watts (120 volts), watts (240 volts)
• Large household appliances: Window air conditioner units, clothes dryers

Wire and Cable Gauge: 8-gauge

• Amps: 40
• Recommended 80 Percent Wattage Load: watts (240 volts)
• Max Wattage Load: watts (240 volts)
• Large household appliances: Electric ranges, central air conditioning

Wire and Cable Gauge: 6-gauge

• Amps: 55
• Recommended 80 Percent Wattage Load: watts (240 volts)
• Max Wattage Load: watts (240 volts)
• Large household appliances: Central air conditioning, electric furnace

Cable Labeling

All the information you need to know about a type of cable is printed on its sheathing. Use the following to determine if a cable is right for a project:

• Type: Will list the type of cable, such as NM-B or UF.
• Gauge: The gauge of the individual wires inside the cable, such as 14, 12, 10 and more.
• Number of wires: This number follows gauge. For example, 14/2 indicates that there are two 14-gauge wires (a ground wire, if part of the cable, is not included in this number) within the cable.
• Grounding: The word “GROUND” or the letter “G” indicates the presence of a ground wire.
• Voltage rating: The most common rating for residential use is 600 volts, but this can vary. The number indicates the maximum voltage the cable can safely carry.
• UL: Indicates that the cable is safety-certified and approved for use by Underwriters Laboratories.

Types of Electrical Cables for Houses & Buildings

There are several different types of electrical cables. Each have their own specific purposes and applications. Below are common types of electrical cables used in homes and businesses:

NM-B Cable

• “NM” stands for non-metallic, which refers to the flexible, typically thermoplastic sheathing surrounding the cable. “B” indicates a heat rating of 194 degrees Fahrenheit, ensuring that its interior wires can operate at certain levels without overheating.
• Most common form of indoor residential electrical wiring.
• Inside the sheathing are at least two thermoplastic insulated wires of the same gauge, though different cables can have different gauges.
• For indoor use only, in spaces free from moisture and away from any heat sources. Do not bury or run outside of a wall.
• Best used behind walls and ceilings and inside floor cavities.

UF Cable

• "UF” stands for underground feeder; rated for in-ground and damp-area installation.
• Looks like an NM-B cable, but the wires are embedded as a group in solid thermoplastic (rather than individually encased in flexible thermoplastic).
• Like an NM cable, UF cable comes in a variety of gauges to meet all electrical code requirements and is labeled with the same information carried on NM cable, plus the designation UF.

AC

• “AC” means armored cable. Also known as “BX”.
• Consists of insulated hot and neutral wires and a bare bonding wire, all wrapped in paper.
• Wire enclosed in metal sheathing that acts as the grounding conductor.
• Relatively expensive and difficult to work with.
• Often found in older homes but not used in new builds.
• For indoor use only.

Metal-Clad Cable

• Similar to AC, but wires are wrapped in plastic instead of paper.
• Has green grounding wire because its metal sheathing can’t be used as a ground.
• For indoor use only.
• Not often used in residential applications.

Types of Electrical Cables for Electronics, Lamps & More

Coaxial Cable

• Usually called “co-ax.”
• Metallic cable often used to carry television signals and connect video equipment.
• Features central wire conductor covered with a dielectric or non-conducting insulator. The insulator is surrounded by mesh or a metal sheath and covered by a thin plastic layer for protection.

HDMI Cable

• Rubber cable often used to transmit digital video, multi-channel surround audio and advanced control data through a single cable.
• An all-digital, audio-video interface which carries signals in uncompressed format.
• Cost-effective.
• HDMI connector types: Type A/B are defined in the HDMI 1.0 specification, type C is defined in the HDMI 1.3 specification and type D/E is defined in the HDMI 1.4 specification.

Speaker Cable

• Used to make the electrical connection between loudspeakers and audio amplifiers.
• A zip-cord type of electrical cable where two or more electrical conductors are individually insulated in a plastic or rubber that can be easily pulled apart.

Category 5e Cable

• Usually called “cat-5e” or ethernet cable.
• Industry standard for unshielded twisted-pair cables (UTP) for connecting , computer, home automation and A/V networks.
• Copper cabling typically consists of 4 pairs of wire (8 total conductors) wrapped in a single jacket.

Lamp Wire

• SPT-1 and SPT-2 is intended for use in small household appliances, including lamps, clocks and fans.
• Not subject to hard usage.
• SPT-1 and SPT-2 conductors are rated for use up to 105 degrees Celsius.

Landscape Cable

• May be used as low-voltage (low-energy) underground.
• Security and outdoor accent lighting applications.
• Not to exceed 150 volts when installed as specified by the National Electrical Code® (NEC) and other applicable standards.
• Sunlight and UV resistant.
• Suitable for direct burial.
• For use at temperatures between -20 degrees Celsius and 60 degrees Celsius.
• Copper conductors.

Sprinkler System Cable

• May be used for connecting field and central controls up to 30 volts.
• Available with 4, 5, 7 or 10 copper conductors and in 50-, 100- and 500-foot lengths.
• Sunlight resistant and suitable for underground applications.
• Insulation rated at 60 degrees Celsius.

Tip: Both NM and AC cable require special cutting tools that cut the sheathing but not the internal wires. They also require bushings inserted in the ends to prevent the sharp edges of the metal from damaging the wires. Special electrical boxes and connectors are also required.

Knowing how to tell the difference between types of electrical wires and cables ensures that your home's power supply operates at peak efficiency and safety. Check with your local building inspector before starting any electrical wiring and cable project. Be sure to obtain required permits and have them inspected for compliance with local codes once complete. Need help identifying a tool or material? Find products fast with image search in The Home Depot Mobile App. Snap a picture of an item you like and we'll show you similar products.

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