Choosing the Right Stencil for a Textured Wall

Cutting Edge Stencils Provides Tips For Choosing the Right Stencil Pattern

Happy Thursday, my little DIY darlings! Remember last week, when Cutting Edge Stencils posted some tips and tricks about stenciling textured walls? This pic might refresh your memory but if you missed it, you can read it here. It's been a hot topic ever since that post because as it turns out textured wall are quite common. In that post, we shared that stenciling a textured wall is indeed possible. Textured wall owners rejoiced, especially those who wanted to take advantage of our 20% off Valentines Day Sale using the code VALENTINE. It also brought about another question, specifically, "What is the best type of stencil for a textured wall?" Today we're going to show you another awesome example and share some tips on choosing the right stencil for your textured wall project!

Stenciling a Knock-down Textured Wall...

We'd like you to meet Amanda Michelle, the DIY design enthusiast behind the blog Well-Groomed Home. She wanted to give her master bedroom a makeover and fell in love with the idea of stenciling an accent wall. Then she realized that her walls had a knock-down texture. No, no it doesn't mean she had to knock down the wall in order to stencil. It's a type of textured wall treatment that builders will use in new homes. It looks like this: Image via drywallschool.com Amanda Michelle didn't let this textured surface hold her back from her stenciling dreams. She purchased our Marrakech Trellis Allover Stencil because she wanted a Moroccan design where she would paint the lines of the pattern rather then the shape (an inverse stencil like our Casablanca). Amanda Michelle also purchased our clip on stencil level, which she touted as a lifesaver and timesavor. She painted the accent wall in Martha Stewart's Wrought Iron, a rich navy blue, and then stenciled the pattern in a creamy white. We think it turned out awesome! Now before you rush off to stencil your own knock-down textured wall, here are some tips for choosing the right stencil... 1. Consider a stencil pattern that is more organic in nature like a floral-inspired pattern (Japanese Peonies Allover, Birds in Trees Allover). Since nature is not perfect, wall imperfections will be less noticeable in designs like these. 2. Select a Moroccan pattern where you are painting the stencil lines rather than the stencil pattern. The Marrakech Trellis Allover Stencil and Agora Allover Stencil are both great choices. 3. For Geometric patterns, avoid patterns that have straight lines and hard edges. Instead take a look at the Paisley Allover or Ikat Saida which will work with a textured wall rather than against it. So tell us what you think, have you considered stenciling a textured wall? Leave us your thoughts in the comments below! Haven't had enough stencil fun?

• Buy a Marrakech Trellis Allover Stencil and update your space today!
• Follow us on Pinterest to see awesome inspirational photos!
• Have you completed a stencil project recently? Come share it on Facebook! We love seeing our fan's stencil projects!

Thanks for reading and happy stenciling! Michelle and the Cutting Edge Stencils Crew

- Please contact us by or to let us know of your intentions to return your items within 30 days of the purchase date. The customer is responsible for the return shipping fees. There is no restocking fee if all conditions are met (see below).

- We only accept the return of unused and undamaged items.

- Custom stencils or stencils of custom size/scale are final sale and non refundable.

- Please send your items in the same or similar packaging to ensure your items do not get damaged in transit. We will not issue a refund for a bent or damaged item.

- Once we receive your return, we will issue a refund for the full price of the items. Our customers are not charged any restocking fees as long as you are within our return policy. Customers are subject to restocking fees if the return is outside of 30 days or the item comes back damaged.

- The shipping fees are non refundable.

If a package is returned to us for any reason (unclaimed, refused, etc.), the initial shipping fee is non refundable and any reshipment fees are the responsibility of the customer.

If you received a damaged stencil, we must be contacted immediately for your choice of a full refund including the shipping fees, or a replacement.

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Due to the nature of stenciling, there is always a potential for paint bleed to occur. Bleeding happens when the paint seeps under the edge of your stencil and creates an edge that's less than perfect.

The idea is more about reducing bleed rather than eliminating it completely. Here are some tips on reducing bleeding while stenciling. See more tips in our "How-To Stencil" videos.

*Don't use too much paint! Too much paint on your roller or brush is the biggest reason for bleed. Off load your brush or roller onto paper towels to remove excess paint and build your paint coverage with 2 coats if necessary. Even if you think that you don't have too much paint on a roller it still may be too much,
so please blot off the roller onto the paper towel before stenciling.

*Don't use a roller with a nap! They hold too much paint. Using a dense foam roller produces the best results.

*Don't push the paint under the edge of the stencil and don't apply too much pressure when rolling or stippling with the brush.

*Stenciling on a flat sheen base coat will work better then stenciling on glossier surfaces because your stencil paint absorbs into the basecoat and dries quicker and has less time to seep under the edge.

*Stenciling with flat latex or craft acrylic paint works best because it dries quickly and has less time to seep.

*Stenciling with gloss paints or glazes will increase the potential for bleed because they dry slowly and have more time to seep under the edge.

*Using a good spray adhesive like Aleene's can greatly reduce bleed. Lightly mist the back of the stencil in a well ventilated area and let dry for a minute. Don't drench the stencil with adhesive because it could transfer to the wall. Re-apply the adhesive every few prints or as it loses it's tack.

*Stenciling on smoother surfaces always works better then on textured surfaces. If you want to stencil a textured surface, it's best to select a pattern that is more organic and has less straight lines. This way any paint bleed will be less noticeable. Using a stencil or stipple brush, not a roller seems to work best for textured surfaces.

*The brand and type of paint you use always plays a part in the amount of bleed you could get. We love Benjamin Moore's "Ben" in flat and most craft acrylics such as Folk Art. Some paints are too watery or too gummy and this may contribute to more bleed.

*Some patterns show bleed more than others. Patterns with straight, crisp geometric lines are less forgiving than organic, ornate, damask patterns.

And finally, this is stenciling! It's not supposed to look like perfectly printed printed wallpaper or stark wall decals! This is a hand-applied artistic wall finish. In almost every case the bleed that you notice while applying the stencil will never be noticed when the project is finished, or even if you just step 2' away from the wall.

If paint bleed occurrs, you can quickly wipe it off with a moist rag or baby wipe, or touch it up later with an artist liner brush and some base coat paint. It's a good idea to clean the paint that bled on the back side of the stencil, since it could contribute to more seepage.

Sure, but with caution. In general, we do not recommend using spray paint for interior stenciling, but it is definitely do-able! Just a few things to consider before you start.

First of all, in most cases spray paint is rather toxic. So if you do use spray paint with your stencils try to do the project
outside or at least in a well ventilated area. Shake the can well before spraying.

Another thing to remember. Spray paint is liquid and tends to drip under the stencil when you sprayed a bit too much. We find it hard to control. It might be a good idea to use spray adhesive on the back of your stencil so it sticks to the surface. This should help to keep the paint from blowing under the edges of the stencil.

Also, it's very easy to spray too much paint on. Always start spraying before the stencil openings and move across the stencil evenly. Stop spraying after you've passed over the openings. This prevents paint dripping. Spray multiple lighter coats and gradually build up your coverage. You may want to mask the surrounding surfaces to prevent overspray.

If the surface you are stenciling is larger than the stencil itself, we do not recommend using spray paint as the excess paint mist can end up on unwanted parts of your surface.

And one last thing. Spray paints usually take longer to dry then regular house paints.

When stenciling on furniture, you want to insure good adhesion. If the piece has a varnish or a glossy finish you'll need to break the sheen. You can do this with a scotch brite pad, steel wool or fine grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the surface and then wipe down the piece with a little denatured alcohol on a rag to remove any grease, wax or furniture polish. When finished, soak any alcohol rags in water, place them outside and dispose of them on trash day. Alcohol rags can spontaneously combust so don't forget to soak them in water! Next, basecoat the piece if you want to change the overall color. Most acrylic paints work well, but to insure good adhesion you may want to use an adhesive primer such as Stix or Zinnser 1*2*3. These primers can even be tinted to the color you want. After your primer/basecoat is dry you can stencil with whatever paint you like. FolkArt acrylics work great. If you want to protect your artwork, you could then topcoat the table with a clear topcoat in your desired sheen.

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First, if your fabric is wrinkled, make sure to iron it first. Tape your fabric to a flat surface (table or floor) so it doesn't have any wrinkles or move around while you stencil. When stenciling on fabric, spray adhesive is very helpful. Lightly mist your stencil with a spray adhesive, let it dry for a few seconds and place your stencil on your fabric surface, pressing it to achieve a tighter seal. Use stencil brushes (if it is a smaller project) or a dense foam roller for a larger one. Add some textile medium (sold in craft stores) to your stencil acrylics and stir it in well. You can also get special fabric paint but frankly, good craft acrylics with a dollop of textile medium work just as well and cost less! Use very little paint on your brush and always off load any extra paint onto a folded paper towel. When using a stencil brush, apply the paint with a dabbing/swirling motion. After all of your stenciling is complete, let the stenciled fabric dry completely (at least 24 hours). Now it's time to heat set the stenciling. Slowly iron the stenciled fabric by pressing the iron for about 20 seconds on a low setting through the piece of soft thin cotton cloth. Heat setting will cure the paint and will help to prevent it from being washed off in the laundry. It's always a good idea to first do a test with a sample of your fabric to ensure good results. Do your stenciling, heat set it and wash the swatch to make sure the whole technique works on your fabric. If the paint washes away you may need more heat-setting time, but it usually holds up just fine. Some fine fabrics will not tolerate heat setting and it's always more difficult to stencil on sheer fabrics. If too much paint is used during stenciling, it may leak through on the other side of the fabric, which may add stiffness to the fabric. If your fabric is thin, place some paper (or ewspapers) under it to protect your working surface (table or floor) from possible paint seepage. We've stenciled on silk, cotton, linen and even sheer fabrics with great results but's always better if your fabric doesn't have too much texture.

A couple of tips we can offer on tenciling floors. First, you'll need to de-gloss and clean any wax, grease or oil off the floor to insure good adhesion of your paint. You should lightly sand the entire floor with 220 sandpaper. This will break the gloss and allow your paint to stick.

Next, clean the floor. Sweep or vacuum up all the dust and then clean the floor with denatured alcohol. Wipe the floor with the alcohol rag and then follow it with a clean moist rag. As the rags get gunky replace them with fresh ones. Don't just throw the alcohol-soaked rags in the trash! They could pontaneously combust. Soak them in water and put them outside to dry out.

If you don't plan on using a top clearcoat, use a special paint recommended for floors as your base coat. If you plan on clearcoating the floor for extra durability, you could use almost any good quality house paint as your basecoat because your durability will come from the clearcoat.

Try to use a flat or semigloss paint as your basecoat. What you really want is good adhesion and quick drying. Oil basecoat paint would be a nightmare. Smell, cleanup :( Forget it!

For stenciling: basically you can use any waterbased paint, latex or acrylics. Do your stenciling as usual, using dense foam roller or brush. You can help drying with a hairdryer if necessary. Or simply let it dry well before top-coating. If you are clearcoating the floor later, you can use a flat sheen stencil paint which will dry quickly. The topcoat will add the final sheen and add durability.

Select a good topcoat in the sheen you want. Remember that the more glossy the topcoat, the more it reflects imperfections. We recommend a satin finish. They make great water-based
topcoats these days so there is no need to use oil. The smell is very strong and lasting (harmful too) and the oil also yellows over time which can affect your floor colors.

Usually you can clean your stencil with just water and a stiff brush, like the one used for scrubbing dishes. Lay the stencil on a flat surface like cutting board or baking tray and scrub it under running water. Make sure to place a mesh into a drain hole, you don't want all that paint residue going down your drain. It's always easier to clean the stencil soon after you finish your project, as opposed to letting it sit for days or weeks. Depending on the paint used, it can come off very easily or may need a slight pre-soaking to loosen it. Usually, acrylic paints come off very easy, and some latex paints may stick a bit more.

We have a nice video showing how to clean a stencil, please check out our Video tab! For removal of adhesive and stubborn paint, try Dawn's "Power Dissolver" in a blue spray bottle. Not very easy to find, but amazing product. Spray on your stencil and clean as usual, or spray the stencil, roll up very carefully or lay flat and place into a large plastic trash bag. Seal. Let sit for a few hours or - better - overnight and then clean as described above. DO NOT USE PAINT THINNER TO CLEAN THE STENCIL!

You can also sit brushes that have dried-out paint on them overnight, and oftentimes you will have saved that brush.

Some other products work too, such as Motsenbocker's Lift-Off Latex Based Paint Remover, Simple Green and Krud Cutter. For adhesive removal, try Bar Keeper's Friend cleaner.

It's important to remember that it's very difficult to completely remove spray adhesive from a stencil, but we find that it is not necessary to get it off completely, the stencil still will be very usable for your next project even if it's a little bit sticky. Just make sure to store it on a piece of a wax paper or freezer paper, as a backing.

You can create a tiled floor look with tile stencils by painting over your old tile, linoleum, concrete or wooden floors. Make sure that the surface that you'll be stenciling is properly prepared! It makes no sense to put your beautiful artwork over a poorly prepared surface. Floors should be clean, dust free and in good condition. Clean your surface with TSP or similar grease cutting cleaner and make sure it has fully dried before priming. Any cracks or chips should be repaired, filled, caulked, primed and painted prior to stenciling.

It is super important that you use a Bonding primer such as STIX, Kilz or Bin to make sure that you get proper adhesion to your floor regardless if you are stenciling existing tile, vinyl, cement or plywood. You can even have your paint store tint the primer so it's closer to your base coat color. Apply 2-3 coats with a tight nap roller (1/4" - 3/8") or even a dense foam roller for a smooth finish and good coverage. You can lightly sand off any small imperfections before applying your base coat but try not to sand through the primer. Let the primer dry fully before applying your base coat.

Use a good quality flat sheen base coat paint. Any good latex or acrylic wall paint will do. Durability is achieved when you prime your tile floor with adhesive primer and later add a protective coat of clear polyurethane after your stenciling is complete, so don't worry about your base coat paint. Apply at least 2 coats with a tight nap roller (1/4" - 3/8") or even a dense foam roller for a smooth finish and good coverage. Base coat paint should be allowed to dry for at least 24 hours before stenciling. For stencil paint, you can use regular latex paint preferably in flat, or craft acrylics.

Are you interested in learning more about decorative paint rollers for walls? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!