WorkBee CNC build - My honest opinion, tips and help | Page 4

@T4Concepts I haven't used Cut3D. But i imagine it the same as the others. All their programs have a good toolset for CAD functionality built in. It won't replace a dedicated CAD program, but is definitely good enough for a lot of jobs. You can then use their CAM tools to setup your toolpaths. In the same pane, you need to save as G-Code. For post processor, just use the standard G-Code mm .tap. Then open this file in UGS and send to the machine.

The post processor isn't the software that sends the file to the machine. There is many flavours of G-Code. Using a post processor is basically just saying which G-Code format you would like. Vectrics standard one, works perfect with GRBL.

Finally a great topic about woorkbee, the information about this CNC is starting to appear.

I build a Xmm CNC, and yes i get some deflection in Y Axis, but since this machine is going to just cut plaint sheets of PVC, Wood and Acrilic, is not a major problem. Due the weight and size i made some upgrades... I changed the Y Axis plates to 4mm Stainless steel (add even more weight, but avoid some X axis defletion) and added double belts, just to avoid to much stretch.I will change the corner plates to 6mm Stainless steel, and i will use a 0.8kw Air Cooled, for now im using router like makita.

For software i'm using ESTLCAM, i didn't get the GBRL to work :|

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cUtY55AcrzrDEuk13

Thanks Ooznest for creating this machine

Thanks T4 for posting your build. Hands down this has been the best information I have found regarding the setup of a WorkBee machine. I'm a two week old newbie to CNC. Surprisingly enough I ran into almost the exact same issue that you did during my build.

First time around, I didn't completely read the manual but rather looked at the diagrams. Needless to say I ended up redoing the build from almost scratch. Lesson learned: READ THE MANUAL FIRST at least as you are going through the build but better yet before you even start. I got stung by the Z-axis limit switch also but instead of build a platform like you did to get under the frame, I simply tilted it up and crawled under it and used my head to hold up the frame while trying to screw in that tiny thing. It didn't go as easy as I thought it would but I eventually got it in. I'm currently awaiting a new AB-Nut-Block from Ryan as the one provided with my kit would barely let the Z-axis lead screw turn at all. I had to disassemble the X-axis to take off the X-carriage assembly (to get to the AB-Nut-Block). It would be a lot easier to replace the AB-Nut-Block if the nyloc nuts were embedded into the Z plate assembly (on the side where the two assemblies join together) so that you could screw in the M5 low profile bolts from outside the assembly. The two assemblies had to be taken apart in order to take off the AB-Nut-Block. I'm sure there is a reason for the current configuration... just thought I would share my thoughts. Thanks again for posting... I cant wait to get the AB-Nut so that I can resume where I left off in your post

Hi MadeinAmman,

Glad you found my build thread informative, my main aim was to demystify the assembly process ................ not that there's much to it, it's pretty straight forward really, specially with those fantastic assembly manuals that Ryan supplied ( when fully read and understood! ). Sometimes it is much easier to have seen somebody else build one prior to attacking theirs. So you're aware of any pitfalls if they exist.

I had the exact same issue with my nut-blocks, so tight that even with my cordless drill attached to the ACME lead screw, I still couldn't drive the lead screw through them! Loads of squirts of silicon didn't help either! But with Ryan' after sales service being second to none, I had replacements the following day via Fedex ................. and I'm in the middle of nowhere in central France!

I should be in the position of posting an update in the next couple of days, it's been a bit busy round here Hopefully you'll also find my update interesting


TURK

Hi MadeinAmman,

Happy you got your WorkBee moving mate those first steps are always nail-biting aren't they ?
I'm by no means an expert, but I would suspect that you have your GRBL setting still set to defaults. Depending on what orientation you have your 750 x mm WorkBee, you would need to 'tell' it it's maximum travel limits. As an example, in the Ooznest 'Full Kit Assembly Manual' ( Apendix B ) ( Page 60 ) there's a list of the recommended GRBL settings for a 750mm x 750mm WorkBee screw driven cnc ( belt driven may be different ).

So my X axis is set to $130=550, and my Y axis is set to $131=520 those set the maximum allowed travel on those axis'. Probably why your machine thinks it's 'going out of bounds'. I don't know off hand what the max limits are for a meter long axis, could be as much as 950mm. Take a look at Ryan's website, I'm pretty sure I saw the machining dimensions on there for a mm x mm a while back. I may be wrong here, but I also believe that those dimension are the actual locations of the limit switches, they all basically define the actual cutting limits available without the gantry crashing against the sides of your cnc. If it helps at all mate, I've also got some YouTube videos of my WorkBee and how I set things up ......... try searching YouTube for "WorkBee CNC - My first GCode".

Have you read the part of my build that explains the 'Homing' positions ? I got all confused reading in other places as no one had actually mentioned that there are two types of 'Homing' positions, so I decided to clarify for newbies. MPos and WPos, so once your cnc is 'Homed' ( the maximum limits ) you then 'Home' your work piece. You set that WPos ( Work Position ) on every job.


If I've got any of this wrong guys, please feel free to jump in and rectify as needed. After all, this is still a guide for newbies and I'm still learning this stuff as I'm going along


Let us know how you get on MadeinAmman



TURK

Hello Turk

Thanks for your reply. I literally had 20 different websites opened in my browser when I got your reply. Mostly Youtube videos. I haven't really found one place that explained the next steps after building a WorkBee machine but I did get bits and pieces over that last few days that started coming into shape. Yes, Im starting to see the light.

In response to your comment, yes I had set up my machine according the appendix in the manual. I watched your video numerous times to get my head the two "homes". Initially it's not that intuitive but once you understand it, it seems so simple. Theoretically I understood the two homes, I just didn't know "how" to set the work position until I saw Schematix's "How to Home a CNC Mill and Setup Milling Stock Home Position".

Yes, I didn't "reset zero" after repositioning the router from my machine home. I feel embarrassed mentioning it now but only do so to help anyone else new to CNC.

The second problem was that I didn't move the router position over enough to the left of the X-axis.

With those two things (and my finger on the power switch), I was able to run my first gcode... now I need to find a Sharpie marker

Thanks Turn, I think I'm going to write up a step-by-step tutorial of how I got my 750x WorkBee to actually run its first gcode. I'm so happppppppppppy!!!

Congratulations mate, well done

I found 'Schematix' tutorial for his custom made OX-Metal to be very informative also, that's why I thought it a good idea to include his How-To's in my build thread.

The information is out there, just not all in one place ( probably why you had 20 odd web pages open all at once as I did when I was researching! and then you have to be able to understand what they're talking about ...............
in my case at first, everything was going right over my head the issue is, most how-to's are written by people who understand what they're talking about, to the rest of us ( newbies ) it may as well be Greek!

Any chance of seeing a nice pic of your working WorkBee ?



TURK

Hey Turk, after getting it to work, I took some time to build a place for it in my shop. I didn't have room in the actual shop so I had to divide the office at the back of the shop in half. I'm still working on it (as well as the rest of the shop) but here's what I have so far. I put a window in the dividing wall so I could watch the machine at work from inside the office

Thanks Turk. That's a good question. At 52, I finally had my mid-life crisis. I've always wanted to have a shop and I thought it would be mostly wood projects. However, after seeing and building Jeremy Schmidt's incremental table saw fence and 2x72" belt grinder, I think I'm hooked on steel fabrication. I will definitely be using it for wood projects (for both home and the shop) but I can see getting into aluminum and plastic also. We'll see what happens. Probably use it for my new DIY website (ie madeinamman.com) also. What are you using yours for?

By the way, I think Aspire and Mach3 may be my next move Im starting to feel more comfortable with CNC.

Well, I'm now 55 and been building stuff all my life and always wanted a workshop, guess I've had a 'mid-life crisis' all along
'Mid-life crisis' is a phrase women use to describe men that 'Have seen the light'!

I'd be careful looking at Mach3 mate for your WorkBee, I've read that it's not compatible with the X-Pro controller. But having said that, I'm pretty sure some people have found a work-around. The Aspire software is superb, though quite expensive. Also worth considering is 'Cut2D' & 'Cut3D' from Vectric > Products - Whats New - Cut2D V8


My WorkBee will only have light duties, as I'm really not expecting to work with steel or Aluminium. I'm using mine for designing and profiling automotive headlight parts. The initial design will be formed using tooling foams such as PU foam. And the final parts 'machined' ( profiled ) out of ABS plastics, such as the images below.

Polyurethane foam buck - Currently I'm making these individually by hand >>




Also, the machining for the headlight mounting positions, are also done by hand. I think in order to gaurentee accuracy a cnc machine is the answer >>



I've still got quite a bit to do to my WorkBee, customise it for my purpose, which means raising it to give a deeper cut depth. Working on that right now, but it also means you need to find the appropriate milling bits for the task at hand.


Thanks mate But then again .................. I don't know if I want to be responsible for you spending all your hard earned money!
Glad that my ramblings did help you out though



TURK

CNC (computer numerical control) milling is an increasingly popular additive manufacturing process that allows for the mechanical etching of three-dimensional shapes from a computer-generated design. It cuts materials such as aluminium, steel, plastics, and wood with industrial cutting tools such as rotary hammers or drills. 

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The milling machine uses computerized systems to move the programmable tool head in two dimensions across the material being cut to carve out shapes that are often intricate for specialized applications. A CNC Milling Machine can be a hefty investment, so it’s important to know exactly what you’re getting yourself into. This guide will help you understand the CNC machining parts. So keep reading.

CNC Milling Machine parts

1) Tool Changers

A tool changer is one of the CNC machining parts that move the tool at an appropriate speed to perform work on different parts of the machine from different locations. This machine has a huge benefit; without it, your machine will not be able to perform work on different parts of your machine from different locations. For example, if you have a 2-Axis mill without a changer, you will have to manually move your tool from Z0 to Z1 to cut the second component; if you have a three-axis mill without a tool changer, then you will have to manually move your tool from X0 to X1 and Y0 to Y1 for it to perform the same job.

2) Spindle

A spindle is a powerful tool that typically puts force on the cutting tool head. It is used to move the tool head and make intricate cuts. Some common spindles include Extruder, linear, ball screw, helical, and planetary.

3) Axes

The axes are the main moving parts of the machine. They allow the spindle to move in all planes. The most common axes include: X, Y, and Z

4)  Frame

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The frame is usually the foundation of any CNC milling machine. They are typically made of steel, aluminium, or other strong material. 

5) CNC Control Panel

The controls are often the most important part of a CNC machine. The controls can be used to control other aspects of the machine, such as the programmable tool head, spindle movement, rotary hammers, and cutting speed.

6) Tool Holders

The tool holders are one of the main parts of CNC machining. Hold the cutting tools in place and make cuts. They usually have a roller or belt drive system to move the tool head at the desired speed.

7) Coolant Tank

The coolant tank is used to hold a coolant which is necessary to keep the cutting tool from overheating while cutting a material. The tank is often connected to a coolant pump with hoses.

8) Columns

The columns are typically made of aluminium, steel, or other strong material. They are used to locate the part to be machined on the machine and move it on the X, Y, and Z axis for precise cuts.

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